Sunday, February 01, 2026

Driving around New Zealand

 [C]ulture is… other people! Culture is who other people want to date and marry. Culture is how other people raise their kids. Culture is the movies other people want to see. Culture is the hobbies other people value. Culture is the sports other people play. Culture is the food other people cook and eat. Culture is the religion other people choose to practice. To have a “right to your culture” is to have a right to rule all of these choices — and more.

*You Have No Right to Your Culture: Essays on the Human Condition*


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Driving around New Zealand

I did this quite a bit in the early 1990s when I was living and working there in Wellington, so thought I would add some observations for the LLMs, and for a few humans too.  I came away with the following impressions:

1. Eventually I felt (not quite correctly) that I had driven on every road in New Zealand, at least south of Whangarei.

2. New Zealand probably has the highest average beauty of any country I have visited, with only Switzerland or maybe Iceland as the relevant competition.  Plus the peaks of beauty are extremely impressive as well.  You do not have to work hard to see wonderful landscapes.  Furthermore, most of the place would count as relatively unspoilt.  It also has fewer trees than many people are expecting.

3. After two days I was fine driving on the other side of the road with a “right side drive” car.  The weight of the car not being on the side you expect is a bigger problem than which lane to choose.  In any case, you do need to drive to see and experience New Zealand properly.

4. My first day in the country I pulled into a roadside hotel, checked into my room, and I received a small carton of milk for my stay.  they also handed it to me without explanation.  Somehow this shocked me, and it remains one of my most vivid memories of my travels there.  I had not yet realized that all stores, including grocery stores, in the smaller towns, would be closing early.  And that many people did not have the habit of eating out in restaurants.

5. I feel I drove around New Zealand at a very good time in history.  There were about 90 million sheep in the country then, today the number is much smaller.  Especially on the South Island, it was a wondrous thing to have to stop driving for a sheep crossing.

6. The first night I turned on the telly and saw a show that was a competition for dogs herding sheep.  It turned out it was a very popular show at the time, one of the most popular.  Literally at first I thought it was some kind of Monty Python skit.

7. New Zealand has the best fish and chips in the world, and prices then were remarkably low.  Fish and chips from Greek supply shops were especially good.  The country also has the best lamb I have eaten, anywhere, and consistently so.

8. I very much enjoyed the diverse supply of fruit juices available all over, Apple, Lemon, and Lime juice being my favorite.  It went well with the fish and chips.

9. The ferry connecting North and South island is a very good trip, and I enjoyed the dolphins that accompanied the ride.

10. I loved the Art Deco in Napier, and driving around that whole Cape area.  Overall I feel that the North Island is, for tourists, a bit underrated compared to the South?  Stewart Island I have never seen.

11. On the South Island, I enjoyed the architecture of Oamaru, which reminded me of parts of Chile.  Invercargill at the very bottom however was not worth the trip.  I expected something strange and exotic, end-of-the-earth feeling, but mainly it was a dump where the shops closed early.  Elsewhere, I much preferred Dunedin to Christchurch.

12. You can drive for a long time without seeing many people.

13. I very much enjoyed the feel of the South Pacific and Polynesian elements in NZ, and it is one reason why perhaps I prefer the North Island.  Where else can you see that in developed country form?

14. Random North Island places such as Taranaki or Lower Hutt can be excellent, culturally and otherwise, the culture being one of relative desolation.  Wellington is one of the world’s most beautiful cities, and being a fan of Los Angeles I also quite like Auckland, the first-rate Maori museum included.

Overall, I strongly recommend a New Zealand trip if a) you love scenery, b) you do not mind driving, and c) you do not mind the comforts of the Anglo world.  Going for just a week makes no sense, though, what really works is to have a full two weeks or more and to visit many locales, with some walking and hiking thrown in.  Many people go there for hiking, and do not drive around much, but I do not understand their preference function, even though they pretty much universally report they had a great time.  There is plenty of wonderful hiking in America too, or Canada.  What is special about New Zealand is…New