Sunday, September 06, 2026

The One Quality Most ‘Super-Agers‘

 YOU DON'T "CONSUME" ART MOTHERF****R. YOU EXPERIENCE IT. YOU FEEL IT. YOU ENGAGE WITH IT. YOU WRESTLE WITH IT. YOU LIVE IT. ART ISN'T A LITTLE MORSEL YOU GOBBLE UP.


The Barman of the Ritz” Is No “Casablanca”

The best-selling novel by the French author and podcaster Philippe Collin, which is set during the German Occupation of Paris, has a great premise but suffers in the execution.





Ralph Rehbock, age 91 and a Holocaust survivor, has a lot on his calendar. On the first Friday of every month, he joins a group of older men at a synagogue outside of Chicago for a meeting of MEL: Men Enjoying Leisure. Every Friday afternoon, he performs classics from the 1930s and 40s with the Meltones, the club’s singing group. And he’s shared his story of escape from Nazi Germany with thousands of school children over the years, through his work with the Illinois Holocaust Museum & Education Center.
Leigh Steinman, 82, spends much of his time working on art projects with the children who live in his Chicago neighborhood and watching the Cubs play at Wrigley Field, which is just a block away. Mr. Steinman worked at the stadium as a security guard for 17 years before retiring at the beginning of the pandemic (his prior career was as an advertising copywriter). But he still walks over three or four times a week during the summer to see former co-workers and fellow fans.
Mr. Rehbock and Mr. Steinman are both considered “super-agers,” people 80 and up who have the same memory ability as someone 20 to 30 years younger. Scientists at Northwestern University have been studying this remarkable group since 2000, in the hopes of discovering how they’ve avoided typical age-related cognitive decline, as well as more serious memory disorders like Alzheimer’s disease. A new review paperpublished Thursday summarizes a quarter century of their findings.
Super-agers are a diverse bunch; they don’t share a magic diet, exercise regimen or medication. But the one thing that does unite them is “how they view the importance of social relationships,” said Sandra Weintraub, a professor of psychiatry and behavioral sciences at the Northwestern Feinberg School of Medicine, who has been involved in the research since the start. “And personality wise, they tend to be on the extroverted side.”
This doesn’t surprise Ben Rein, a neuroscientist and the author of the forthcoming book, “Why Brains Need Friends: The Neuroscience of Social Connection.”
“People who socialize more are more resistant to cognitive decline as they get older,” Dr. Rein said. And, he added, they “have generally larger brains.”

Researchers think that may be because socializing could help to protect against declines in brain volume that happen with age and isolation. Loneliness, which is particularly common in older adults, can increase levels of the stress hormone cortisol, and if cortisol is elevated for long periods of time it can lead to chronic inflammation. That, in turn, could damage brain cells and even increase the risk for dementia.

By being more social in old age, super-agers may avert some of the atrophy. An analysis included in the new paper backs this up: The brain volume of super-agers tends to be more on par with 50- and 60-year-olds than with their octogenarian and nonagenarian peers.
Image
An older man wears a blue shirt and Chicago Cubs hat and holds a baseball bat and ball. He is standing in front of a red gate.
Much of super-ager Leigh Steinman’s socializing takes place at Wrigley Field, where he watches the Chicago Cubs and catches up with old friends.Credit...Lyndon French for The New York Times
Another notable difference is that super-ager brains tend to have more of a special type of cell, called von Economo neurons, that is thought to be important for social behaviors and is only found in highly social mammals — namely apes, elephants, whales and humans.

All those von Economo neurons “probably help them build and maintain powerful, strong social connections and social networks,” said Dr. Bill Seeley, a professor of neurology and pathology at the University of California, San Francisco. And that may have “a far-reaching effect on their overall well-being and health.”
But, Dr. Seeley added, this is likely just one of “a whole suite of neurobiological advantages that puts them in such good shape at this stage in life.”
For example, almost all 80-year-olds have signs of Alzheimer’s disease in their brains (whether or not they have the condition), but some super-agers have little to none. In addition, in super-ager brains, the functioning of a neurochemical that is important for attention and memory is better preserved.
Dr. Sofiya Milman, a professor of medicine and genetics at the Albert Einstein College of Medicine in New York, studies healthy centenarians. She said that they also tend to be extroverted and “have a positive outlook on life.”


There is a “chicken and the egg” conundrum, though. A person with better cognitive functioning may be more eager to go out and socialize, compared with someone who feels like their memory is declining. “Whether it’s the socialization that leads to maintenance of better cognition, or whether it’s the better cognition that leads to more socialization, I think it’s still open to debate,” Dr. Milman said.
Unfortunately, forcing yourself to be more social probably won’t be enough to turn you into a super-ager. Dr. Weintraub said super-agers’ preternatural ability likely comes down to their genetics and biology, as well as their behaviors.
But to Mr. Steinman, the importance of seeing his neighbors and friends at the ballpark is clear. “I think the sociability of Wrigley Field and where I live, my block, that’s what’s kept me going all this time,” he said.
Dana G. Smith is a Times reporter covering personal health, particularly aging and brain health.
A version of this article appears in print on Aug. 9, 2025, Section A, Page 18 of the New York edition with the headline: For ‘Super-Agers,’ Sharp-Witted and Over 80, Sociability Is a Trait They ShareOrder Reprints | Today’s Paper | Subscribe


Saturday, September 05, 2026

It takes a lot to perfect a Portuguese tart. These Sydney bakeries are doing the work

 THE LONELY LIVES OF SCIENTISTS:  Soil Scientists Buried 2,000 Pairs of Underwear to Prove a Point.


It takes a lot to perfect a Portuguese tart. These Sydney bakeries are doing the work

More than 16,000 Portuguese tarts were sold during the first fortnight at Sweet Belem Barangaroo, but Sydney’s hunger for the fastidious dessert extends well into the suburbs.

Bianca Hrovat and Good Food Guide reviewers

September 5, 2026

Baked@Bina’s owners Sabrina and Brian Dias with their handmade Portuguese tarts, at their Brazilian Portuguese bakery in Earlwood.DION GEORGOPOULOS

The first time Turramurra bakery Flour Shoptried to put Portuguese tarts (also known as pastel de nata) on the menu, it led to heartbreak. 

The egg custard pastries demanded perfection, says pastry chef and co-owner Anu Haran. Unlike other baked goods, just one momentary lapse in attention, during any one of the 12 steps required, could lead to disaster – tarts that fell apart, stuck to their tins, or overflowed with burnished custard. 

“There was a time we stopped making them because it was incredibly hard to get them consistently right,” she says. It took a year before Haran was ready to try again, and another year of meticulously testing each variable before she was truly happy with the final product. 

Flour Shop in Turramurra. 

“From a baker’s perspective, it’s an incredibly satisfying product to make,” she says. “I like to think of them as a reflection of most good things in life, which always take a bit of effort to achieve, [like] the view from the summit after a difficult hike, [or] a garden starting to thrive after years of work on the soil.”

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Sydney has developed a great hunger for the fastidious little desserts. In July, the city’s most renowned purveyor of Portuguese tarts, Sweet Belem, expanded to a second location in Barangaroo. Within two weeks of opening, the shop sold more than 16,000 Portuguese tarts and now averages about 1000 each day.

Baked@Bina’s owner-baker Sabrina Dias hand-shapes each Portuguese tart.DION GEORGOPOULOS

The craft required to make Portuguese tarts, reportedly first developed by 18th century Catholic monks in Lisbon, is a source of familial and personal pride for pastry chef Sabrina Dias, who co-owns Earlwood bakery Baked@Bina’s with Brian Dias. 

She spent many years refining her traditional family recipe, making adjustments to the pastry, custard, resting time and baking temperature to create a balanced product that felt uniquely their own. 


“For me, a great Portuguese tart is not just [about the] custard,” Dias says. “In one bite, you should taste the crisp, buttery pastry, the creamy custard and the caramelised top together.”

An increasing number of Sydney venues have taken on the challenge. In April, Sofe Bakery opened in Wahroonga, filling its display cabinet with Portuguese tarts, and in August, former Bentley Restaurant and Bar chef Justin Martins debuted a Portuguese tart martini while kicking off dinner service at Darlinghurst cafe Manteiga.

Discover those, and more, in Good Food’s collection of places to try Portuguese tarts in Sydney, below. 

A family recipe, refined for years, used at Baked@Bina’s, Earlwood.DION GEORGOPOULOS

Baked@Bina’s Brazilian Portuguese Foods, Earlwood


Baker Sabrina Dias, who owns Baked@Bina’s with husband Brian, has spent many years refining her family recipe for traditional pastel de nata. “I worked on every part of it – the pastry, the custard, the resting time, the baking time and the caramelisation – until I reached the balance I was looking for,” Dias says. Each $5 tart is hand-shaped, rested and carefully baked. “When you bite into it, you should experience three things together: the crispness and buttery layers of the pastry, the smoothness and richness of the custard, and the slightly deeper flavour created by the caramelised surface.”

154 William Street, Earlwood, binasfood.com

Portuguese tarts at Flour Shop, Turramurra.

Flour Shop, Turramurra

After many years of development, the Portuguese tarts are back on the weekly menu at Flour Shop. At present, they’re sold on Fridays and Saturdays (updates posted to social media), with batches coming out of the oven throughout the day. “While they’re still nice when they’ve cooled down, they’re really special when warm – a super crisp shell and oozy warm custard with a little bit of cinnamon and lemon,” says baker-owner Anu Haran. “If you happen to be there when a batch has just come out of the oven, our front of house will always draw your attention to them and nudge you to get one.”


16 Princes Street, Turramurra, flourshop.com.au

Park's famous Portuguese tart is on offer at Jinius.JANIE BARRETT

Jinius, Dawes Point

Jinius head baker and co-owner Yeongjin Park is renowned for his own interpretation of a Portuguese tart, which he debuted at former workplace Tenacious Bakehouse before serving it at his Dawes Point cafe. “The Portuguese tart is a very meaningful item for me,” Park says. “I went through a lot of trial and error developing it, and I have a lot of memories attached to it.” It’s rectangular (to better showcase the layers of Viennoiserie, and avoid excess waste), larger than you might expect, with the subtle umami addition of miso in the custard. “It was something customers really responded to, so I feel very grateful to it – in many ways, it’s one of the items that helped bring me to where I am today,” he says.

Shop 8/16 Hickson Road, Dawes Point, instagram.com/jinius.au


Sweet Belem’s Portuguese tarts. 

Sweet Belem, Barangaroo and Petersham

In Sydney, the name Sweet Belem has become synonymous with one thing: Portuguese tarts. The family-owned bakery was founded by Joao De Almeida in Petersham in 2003, before being bought by chef Jose Silva, formerly of Guillaume at Bennelong, in 2012. Now Silva is bringing his pastel de nata to the city, with a second shop open in Barangaroo. It sells the original egg custard tarts, as well as the blueberry and raspberry varieties. Check the glass cabinets for other Portuguese specialties such as bola de Berlim, filled doughnuts, and Jesuite, an almond and frangipane pastry.

35B New Canterbury Road, Petersham and Shop 3/23 Barangaroo Avenue, Barangaroo, sweetbelem.com.au

The pasteis de nata are baked fresh every morning at Lusinata.JANIE BARRETT

Lusinata, Hurstville

The pasteis de nata (Portuguese tarts) here may not come with fancy toppings, but you can match the “tiny scorched suns” with dessert wines and cherry liqueur. Or, you could just order half a dozen to take home for the pinnacle of couch snacking. Fernando Ferreira has spent four decades perfecting traditional Portuguese pastries, biscuits and cakes, and Lusinata is a co-production with his son, Andre, who is passionate about continuing the family trade. When they opened in 2024, they sold tarts and only tarts, but the range has expanded to include Portuguese chorizo bread, almond rolls and sponge “napkins”.

2/127 Forest Road, Hurstville, lusinata.co

Tuga’s famous pastel de nata at its bakery in Clovelly.EDWINA PICKLES

Tuga Pastries, Alexandria and Clovelly


Come for the cinnamon-dusted pastel de nata, but stay for the hunky three-cheese and truffle toastie, choc-filled doughnuts and crunchy croissant sandwiches. Tuga might be known as a top purveyor of Portuguese tarts, but everything here is a banger. Owner Diogo Ferreira is bursting with ideas, which makes it tough to choose from the exciting array of sweet and savoury goodies. Friendly staff are on hand at the Clovelly and Alexandria locations to help make the hard decisions.

10/112 McEvoy Street, Alexandria and Shop 6/231 Clovelly Road, Clovelly, tugapastries.com.au

Portuguese custard tarts at Sofe Bakery, Wahroonga.

Sofe Bakery, Wahroonga

While researching the bakery business in Japan and Korea, mother-and-daughter team Se-Young Lee and Sophia Lee fell in love with Portuguese tarts. “They became a big part of the inspiration for Sofe,” says Sophia Lee. To them, Portuguese tarts felt like the perfect vehicle for merging the creativity of contemporary Korean and Japanese baking with the approachability and quality produce of Australian bakery culture. “It’s about finding that balance between something comforting and familiar, and something a little new and unexpected,” Lee says. Each tart is made slowly, by hand, taking three days of lamination, resting and baking.


12 Railway Avenue, Wahroonga, instagram.com/sofebakery

Portuguese tart cocktail at Manteiga, Darlinghurst.

Manteiga, Darlinghurst

Former fine-dining chef Justin Martins launched dinner service at his Portuguese cafe Manteiga in August, and there’s a new specialty cocktail on the menu inspired by a Portuguese tart. Belem 43, as it’s called, blends Licor 43, spiced rum, pasteis de nata cream, cinnamon and feuilletine, offering a fun, liquified version of the dessert – in addition to a Portuguese tart mont blanc, and Martins’ own take on the tart itself, offered throughout the day. 

169 Darlinghurst Road, Darlinghurst, manteiga.com.