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The tiny Pyrenean villages winning Michelin stars Three restaurants in villages of fewer than 200 people are turning Huesca into Spain’s latest inside-track destination
Back and forth I drove along the valley, cursing my satnav. A petrol station with a bright yellow canopy — surely this couldn’t be the site of the Michelin-starred restaurant I was looking for? Yet apparently it was. Casa Arcas, a grey granite house with a gas station joined at the hip, is one of a small group of restaurants that have just hit the culinary big time despite their often surprising locations in a rural corner of north-eastern Spain.
Huesca, one of three provinces of Aragón, is little visited by non-Spaniards — even the ski resorts of Formigal, Candanchú, Cerler and Panticosa are mainly patronised by moneyed madrileños and barceloneses. If it has any traction at all in foreign markets it’s thanks to Canfranc Estación, an imposing 1928 railway station, opened two years ago as a grand hotel.
But in recent months something else has happened to help put Huesca on the map. At a Michelin awards ceremony late last year, stars were awarded for the first time to three restaurants, all of them (including the one beside the gasolinera) in Pyrenean villages with fewer than 200 inhabitants.
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