Fifteen gorgeous hilltop towns in Italy where time stands still
Italy was clearly much missed during the pandemic. But it quickly returned to its tourist numbers of 2019 and visitors continue to rush back. Rome, Florence and Venice (even with a new tourist tax in place) are particularly jammed. But, happily, there are still spots with a fraction of the visitors of these main hubs. Look and you will find beautiful towns in the midst of cinematic countryside, even more alluring in their relative solitude.
Here are 15 of the most spectacular and unexpected towns to put on your radar, whether you are an art buff, a gourmand or a nature lover. Each is its own special kind of paradise.
1. Lucignano, Tuscany
Most travellers zoom up to Cortona, made famous in the film Under the Tuscan Sun, and leave this tiny village to the lucky insiders. But it’s more than worth a stop: the settlement is an ode to medieval planning, with a perfect elliptical shape and streets arranged in neat concentric circles. Centrally located, the town has always had an unbeatable strategic position and was long a pawn in the rivalry between Siena and Florence.
Don’t miss the 13th-century church of San Francesco, a beautiful little chapel with a limestone and travertine facade, and the ruins of a Medici castle near the Sanctuary of the Madonna delle Querce, designed by heavyweight art historian Giorgio Vasari.
A visit to Il Goccino is a must to try the handmade pasta and steak from the local Chianina breed. Those with a sweet tooth should try the unforgettable bitter chocolate gelato at C’era Una Volta (Via Rosini 20).
Stay Set in a 16th-century villa with glorious gardens and surrounded by olive trees, Villa Fontelunga has rooms from $502 including breakfast. The owners also added the chic Borgo 69 (rooms from $883 including breakfast) to its portfolio a couple of years ago.
2. Civita di Bagnoregio, Lazio
Even in a countryknown for its picturesque hill towns, this medieval masterpiece takes it up a notch. Accessible only by a footbridge perched over the cliffs (those with a fear of heights might not want to look down), this postcard-perfect village is known as the “dying city”, both for the fact that its limestone base is slowly eroding over time, and because residents tend to leave for bigger metropolises. All the better for lucky visitors who can still wander the tiny streets and alleyways in peace, stopping into sleepy delights such as the Chiesa di San Donato.
Stay Corte della Maesta has doubles from $738 a night, including breakfast.
3. Capalbio, Tuscany
Despite being a beloved spot for Romans looking for a weekend getaway (many have second homes here) Capalbio has remained under the radar for most travellers. The village, and its surrounding countryside has something for everyone: lovely beaches with excellent seaside restaurants, Etruscan ruins within a short drive, a tarot sculpture garden by esteemed artist Niki de Saint Phalle, and the village itself with its peaceful streets.
Stay Glamping has come to the Italian Coast with barefoot chic tents and a stylish beach club among the draws at Retreat & Glamping Terre di Sacra (from $230).
4. Santo Stefano di Sessanio, Abruzzo
Driving to this fortified hamlet 1219 metres up in the mountains gives a new sense of the remote, plus a huge feeling of admiration for the hearty souls who decided to set up home here despite the stark isolation. Like many towns far from “civilisation”, the village has become quite depopulated. But from here it’s an easy trip to one of the most beautiful national parks in Italy – Gran Sasso, with its green meadows, towering massifs, and more than 160 kilometres of paths for walking and horse riding.
Stay Thanks to the efforts of Daniele Kihlgren, Sextantio Albergo Diffuso (from $294 including breakfast) has been reinvented as a gorgeous hotel – think original stone walls and open fireplaces mixed with stand-alone tubs and plus linens.
5. San Vito di Cadore, Veneto
VIP types and alpine lovers will undoubtedly have heard of nearby Cortina d’Ampezzo, where the Winter Olympics took place in 1956 and are planned for 2026 too. It also featured in the James Bond film For Your Eyes Only. San Vito di Cadore itself has less of an international vibe. The simple Alpine town makes a good launch point for the Dolomiti Superski network and the rifugi (refuge restaurants) of the mountains, such as Rifugio Scotoni and Rifugio Scoiattoli.
Stay Rosapetra Spa Resort ($392 including breakfast) has an indoor spa and local treatments, perfect after strenuous mountain activities or gourmand pleasures.
6. Urbino, Le Marche
Visitors who make it to this beautiful Renaissance gem will be justified in asking why it is relatively unknown. The answer is that its location demands some particularly Italian navigation, meaning its perfectly conceived architectural plan and art collection have remained insider secrets.
But make haste to this UNESCO-protected masterpiece and enjoy the blend of university vibes (it has one of the oldest in Italy) and unforgettable art. The Palazzo Ducale (also known as the Galleria Nazionale delle Marche) should be on any itinerary for its series of renaissance rooms conceived as an art museum, plus a visit to the childhood home of Raphael (yes, that Raphael).
Don’t miss a meal at the tiny La Trattoria del Leone for passatelli, Le Marche’s traditional pasta shape.
Stay Just outside of Urbino, Ca Andreana has rustic rooms and authentic cuisine.
7. Maratea, Basilicata
Not to be confused with its sister city, Matera, this seaside haunt looks much like the towns along the neighbouring Amalfi Coast, with craggy coastline, undiscovered coves and hardly a tourist in sight for a fraction of the price.
Divided into two parts, the port and the fortified hill town village, make sure to take a tour of both. In the upper part, you will find 42 churches among the charming streets, while in the port, make sure to stop in to Za’ Mariuccia for spaghetti, before taking a boat excursion to beaches such as Spiaggia Nera and the crystal-clear waters of Macarro Beach.
Stay The same owners of Puglia’s Borgo Egnazia recently took over Santavenere ($392 including breakfast), a 1950s villa outside Maratea, with updates to its services while preserving details like Vietri tiles and a private beach.
8. San Daniele, Friuli Venezia Giulia
Oh prosciutto. How many lovers of Italian cuisine enjoy this wafer-thin ham, whether alone or with figs? This tiny town in Friuli is home to the DOC delicacy, a national icon with strict rules to follow for its production, including a year-long ageing process and a specific type of pork that can only come from local pigs. At Prosciuttificio Bagatto you can go on a tour and learn how this three-generation family business put San Daniele on the gastronomic map, and afterwards enjoy a nibble of its famed product with a crisp glass of Pinot Grigio DOCG, for which the region is also famous.
The town has other star attractions: the frescoes of the Church of Saint Antonio by Pellegrino da San Daniele have been coined the Sistine Chapel of Friuli, and it’s worth booking a private tour of the Biblioteca Guarneriana, a library from 1466, with priceless first editions of volumes including Dante’s Inferno.
Stay Just a minute’s walk from the town’s Duomo, Hotel San Daniele ($147 including breakfast) offers great value for a perfectly central location.
9. Asolo, Veneto
Many travellers to this region concentrate on the must-see city of Venice, or Verona, a hub of opera and good wine. Stretch your horizons with a stint in Asolo (asolaremeans to breathe gently), a city of gentle streets and quiet spots to channel your inner artist – Ernest Hemingway and Ezra Pound are just two of the writers to have found solace here.
Head first to the town’s heart, the Caffe Centrale, for an espresso or a glass of fizz – this little region might be lesser known than neighbouring Valdobbiadene, but it’s gained a similar reputation for its quality prosecco. There you might want to read Asolando, the poem Robert Browning penned for the town he loved, or take a stroll through the gardens and villas that Freya Stark called home until she turned 100. If you are more of a shopping type, the city offers an antiques market on the second Sunday of every month – the Osteria al Bacaro (Via Browning 165) where you can sample exquisite plates of local products in between checking out stalls.
Stay The Hotel Villa Cipriani ($377 including breakfast) has hosted many an acclaimed writer and comes with an outdoor pool.
10. Citta della Pieve, Umbria
The rivalry between Umbria and Tuscany is legendary, and when you visit Citta della Pieve you can’t help wondering how overrun it would be if it were on the Tuscan side of the border. The historic DNA of the village runs deep, with Etruscans and Romans among the residents who settled here. Famed Renaissance artist Pietro Vannucci hailed from here in its medieval heyday, and examples of his work are hung through small churches in town.
Interestingly, the village has also become a contemporary arts hub. Its Giardino dei Lauri, outside of town, is a showcase for younger as well as established artists such as Maurizio Cattelan and Martin Creed (admission is free).
Stay Roberto Wirth, the legendary hotelier behind Rome’s Hassler, has taken over Hotel Vannucci ($251 including breakfast) and subsequently given it a luxury upgrade.
11. Norcia, Umbria
The well-documented earthquakes of 2016 destroyed many of the principal buildings here, but it is quickly being restored to its former beauty. The centrepiece of the area is the national park of Sibillini, a complex biosphere perfect for long hikes through a former glacial plain filled with wild horses and falcons. In spring, La Fioritura (“the Flowering”) is a stunning display of wildflowers that reveals a tapestry of poppies, wild tulips and cornflowers across the landscape.
In Norcia itself, food takes centre stage, with dried porcini and organic lentils (traditionally cooked for New Year’s Eve) among the best local produce. Black sausage, salami and other pork products are sold at butchers known as norcineria, a name used even in other parts of the country.
Stay Palazzo Seneca ($336 including breakfast) housed in a 16th-century landmark, serves as the perfect launch pad for the national park and has a Michelin-starred restaurant, making it a destination in its own right.
12. Ragusa Ibla, Sicily
Looking for a fairy-tale setting high in the mountains of Sicily? Ragusa Ibla fits the bill. This baroque masterpiece oozes charm, with its layered Duomo seemingly made of marzipan, and palaces straight out of a romantic novel.
Much of the Sicilian coastline has been marred by over-construction, but towns such as Noto, Modica and Ragusa have retained their 19th-century atmosphere. Meanwhile, chef Ciccio Sultano has put Ragusa Ibla on the map for foodies; his Duomo offers an hour-long culinary experience that remains exciting rather than stuffy. The lasagne with blue lobster, shrimp and calamari is unforgettable. Afterwards, pick up a cone of cherry tomato and olive oil gelato at Gelati Divini – the perfect palate-cleanser.
After all the calories gained, book a walk with Italian Connection Tours; Anita Iaconangelo lovingly shows guests around the area she knows so well in an intuitive and well-researched way.
Stay a.d. 1768 (rooms from $233) is a boutique hotel in the heart of town housed in a building built in, yep, 1768. Splurge on the suite with a view of the Duomo.
13. Locorotondo, Puglia
The cal markets are a hit-or-miss affair in northern Italy – often a jumble sale of Chinese clothes and electronics, with the occasional far-from-home ingredient, rather than a true showcase of a region’s local produce.
In the south, however, Puglia’s markets have remained authentic to their culture. You can spend hours chatting about the cocomero (an unusual hybrid between a melon and cucumber) and the black-blue colour of the aubergines, or just listening to the traders crowing out their wares to operatic effect.
Even when it’s not market day, with its hidden away streets leading to Romanesque churches and sleepy cafes, Locorotondo has to be one of Puglia’s most romantic towns.
Stay Leonardo Trulli Resort ($192 including breakfast) is an updated take on the stone houses that have become a national treasure. The big swimming pool is another draw.
14. Pietrapertosa, Basilicata
The a huge amount of press going to neighbouring Puglia, Basilicata has remained under the radar for most travellers. But Pietrapertosa, located in the mammoth mountains, is becoming an adventure sport must for rock climbing and zip-lining fanatics. Don’t miss the “angel’s flight” route which careers between Pietrapertosa and Castelmezzano, a cinematic option for true adrenalin junkies.
For those lacking daredevil tendencies, the town is worth a stop for its lost-in-time vibe, and not least its Saracen castle. Foodies will be impressed by authentic spots such as Le Rocce (Via Giuseppe Garibaldi 109).
Stay The basic but well-appointed Il Palazzo del Baronehas rooms from $57.
15. Montisi, Tuscany
Pienza, Montepulciano and Montalcino deserve their hill town, fame but there are other secrets jealously guarded in southern Tuscany. Montisi, a small town surrounded by succulent truffle forests and tracks of boar and deer, has become a second-home option for both Italians and ex-pats looking for the Tuscany of decades past.
While in the area, also make a stop at San Giovanni d’Asso and Castelmuzio, which complete the sense of being lost in time.
Stay Lupaia (rooms from $1385) is the perfect mix of chic, crisp rooms and home-grown hospitality. Don’t miss a dinner at its restaurant; with its countryside kitchen and roaring fireplace. It’s a hard place to leave.
This is an edited version of an article that appeared in The Telegraph, London.
